We dye natural fur at home. How to easily dye the fur of arctic fox, mink, silver fox, fox at home

Happy owners of fur items know that they fade over time. To restore color, you don’t have to turn to professionals for help - you can do it at home. Knowing how to dye fur, you minimal costs give the product a second life.

Preparation

Before proceeding directly to painting, the fur must be prepared. Clean it thoroughly from dust and dirt so that the paint adheres well. For these purposes, you can use an alkaline solution.

For a liter of water you need to take the following components:

  • approximately 15 grams of salt;
  • two teaspoons of baking soda;
  • 7 ml detergent;
  • 5 grams of ammonia.

Mix all ingredients to obtain a homogeneous mass. It is convenient to apply it with a brush. Be sure to wash off the product. You can also use another composition: combine water, vinegar, and alcohol in equal proportions.

The wrong side, the inner side, also needs to be processed. It is necessary to apply glycerin or fatty cream to it.

This will prevent skin deformation. The fur must be pinned to a board so that the item does not lose its shape during the process of dyeing and drying.

If the interior is poorly painted, it will “shine”, creating the effect of sparse fibers. It can be tinted from the inside out. How to paint the inside of the fur? Can be used special remedy or apply hair dye after testing it on an inconspicuous area.

Using hair dye

It is often used to color arctic foxes. It is quite dense, so it is better to buy two or three packages so that the color is rich and uniform.


Before applying the composition to the entire surface, test it on a small piece.

You can see how he “behaves” when interacting with chemicals. Choose a paint one or two shades darker than the natural color - it will make its color richer.

If a thing has turned yellow, it is better not to paint it, but to lighten it. This can be done using hydrogen peroxide. Only after this is it necessary to apply the coloring composition of the appropriate shade.

How to apply paint?

Owners of stylish things often think about how to dye natural fur at home. This must be done with quick, even movements. Leave the paint on for the time indicated on the package.


After applying the paint, it must be rubbed over the surface so that there are no bright spots left. This must be done carefully, without twisting the fibers; before doing this, you should wear gloves.

After the period indicated on the package has expired, rinse in warm water and vinegar. To make it soft and shiny, after drying, you can apply the balm that comes with the paint.

Rinse it thoroughly and dry the fur. After such manipulations, the item will look like new.

Spray paint

Owners of items made from arctic fox fur sometimes notice that the tips begin to turn yellow. To restore the original appearance, it is not necessary to paint the entire product; it is enough to use suede paint from an aerosol can.


Select the desired color and spray at a distance of at least 70 cm from the product. To prevent the hairs from sticking together, the can must be constantly moved, and after spraying, immediately comb them with a special brush.

If you want to dye your Arctic fox fur a different color at home, you will need regular hair dye. To get the desired result, you need to follow the instructions. But it is worth remembering that the color will last no more than 8-9 months, and then it will gradually begin to wash off. To restore the original appearance, the item will have to be painted again.

Is it possible to dye mink products?

Real fur is always in fashion. But over time, stylish mink items lose their rich color and shine. How to dye fur at home? There is nothing difficult about this if you follow the basic rules.

Often women dye their mink with regular hair dye. Before applying the composition, mink fur must be prepared in the same way as arctic fox fur. To make the procedure easier, you can use an aerosol or spray bottle. Spray the product at a distance of approximately 70 cm. Do not forget to comb the hairs with a brush or at least rub them with your hands. To dry, you can use a hairdryer or allow it to dry naturally. Hair balm applied to the surface will give shine and softness. Be sure to rinse it off thoroughly.

How to dye faux fur


Products made from it are very popular due to their attractive appearance and reasonable cost. But over time, faux fur needs painting.

During prolonged wear, a fur product may lose its attractiveness only because the fur has faded either from the sun or from exposure to precipitation. In this case, there are two ways of restoration. Specialized enterprises that provide dry cleaning and painting services know how to do this efficiently. But you can give a “second life” to your favorite thing at home. By following the instructions and applying some of your own imagination, you will be able to create a unique work of art.

If the age of a fur product is indicated by its color, then update appearance possible by painting.

For gray astrakhan, only black or brown is used. Mink is dyed in its native colors in order to restore faded shades. Black or brown pigment is suitable for mouton products. Fur items in beige tones are dyed in all shades of brown to enhance the intensity of the native color. Choose a paint one or two shades darker for the job.

The main condition for high-quality and uniform coloring is. The best remedy An alkaline solution proved to be suitable for cleaning; its composition is as follows:

  • soda (dessert spoon);
  • salt (dessert spoon);
  • ammonia (teaspoon);
  • about 15 drops of detergent
  • 1 liter of water.

Lightening yellowed white fur is an additional element of color restoration. To do this, use a solution with hydrogen peroxide (a teaspoon) and ammonia (10 drops). This product can remove yellowness from the fur of a silver fox. When processing with this composition, deep soaking should be avoided. First, make a test on an inconspicuous area of ​​the product. 15 minutes is enough for lightening. We must remember that a longer process will make the ends brittle.

Chalk and starch help remove yellowness from the fur of a gray rabbit for a while. The powder is rubbed evenly and with little effort over the top of the pile and shaken off. This method will not harm the product, so it can be used often. Gray rabbit fur is dyed with hair pigment. There is also an absolutely safe method in which an aqueous solution of bluing is carefully applied with a brush to the entire surface of the product. The composition should be light blue.

To enhance faded raccoon fur, use hair dye with a lightening effect, as a result of which the product will look gold-plated or silver-plated.

You can renew fox fur with thick potassium permanganate. Treat it carefully with a sponge, not allowing things to get wet.

The faded ends of the fur are painted with suede spray paint. Spray the product slowly, keeping a distance of about 70 centimeters between the fur coat and the sprayer.

How to dye fur with hair dye?

Hair dyes are suitable for dyeing an arctic fox or a mink on your own. This method has been tested in practice and always gives positive results when painting not too old things. It is better to first test the effect of even high-quality products on a small, inconspicuous area of ​​the product.

To dye fur at home, you will need to follow these steps:

  1. Straightening the strands of natural fur, apply a thin layer of fatty cream or glycerin to the flesh.
  2. Gently moisturize the entire fur surface.
  3. Apply the product as carefully as when coloring your hair.
  4. Leave it for a while. Duration of dyeing - according to the instructions on the packaging with the dye.
  5. To enhance the effect of the paint, apply a saline solution evenly over the entire surface.
  6. Wash off the paint under the flow of water from the shower.
  7. Remove excess with rags or blotting paper.

After drying, the fur is combed, observing the natural direction of the pile. This dye lasts on a fur item for up to six months, and this is often enough to make the item look renewed.

A simplified option for saturating the tone is to color it with a tinting shampoo (according to the instructions on the package).

Homemade stencils are used for painting with multi-colored paints. The spots are painted one at a time.

Faux fur is easier to dye. You can use tinting shampoo and hair dye. The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. Before dyeing begins, the product is fixed.
  2. Apply the product in the direction of the fibers.
  3. Leave the paint to soak in. The time must match the instructions in the instructions.
  4. After the procedure, the fur is washed, dried and combed.

Experts do not recommend experimenting with coloring new things.

Home or professional dyeing extends the life of a fur product for a short time. After some time, the pigment comes off and the item becomes faded again.

A BIT OF HISTORY

In terms of richness of shades, natural dyes have no rivals. If you knit or weave tapestries, it is worth learning how to dye with natural dyes. This will help you create interesting, unique clothing patterns and unique color transitions in weaving. Vegetable dyes produce such deep and soft tones that, even at high intensity, do not look flashy. Fabrics dyed in this way do not fade when washed, do not fade in the sun, do not harm your health and do not damage your hands!

Dyeing yarn or fabrics with natural organic dyes, which are found in plants or in some types of insects and marine animals, has its origins in ancient times. Of all the diversity flora Through the practice of dyeing over the centuries, those dyeing plants were selected that provided the highest quality, durability and beauty of color.

The range of natural dyes that give durable red and blue colors, colors considered precious at all times, is small. The best in beauty and durability were two red dyes of animal origin: purple, extracted from Mediterranean shellfish until the 19th century, and carmine, which was extracted from insects of two different types- scale insects in Europe and Asia and cochineal in South America.

The most popular red vegetable dye, not inferior in strength to carmine, was crapp, which was extracted from the roots of madder.

The most common blue dye, indigo, also distinguished by its special color fastness, was the only one of its kind. Indigo was obtained from a plant growing in countries with warm climate- India, Southeast Asia. Other indigo-bearing plants from more northern latitudes did not give such an intense color, so they could not compete with indigo. Until the late 19th century, indigo was the only reliable blue dye for textile fibers.

Of the dyes of other colors, the favorite ones were bright yellow, which was extracted from tropical plant turmeric and barberry roots.

Such bright and durable dyes were used to make precious fabrics, the consumers of which were only noble people.

In addition, there were many yellowish and brown dyes of different shades, which were obtained in each country from local raw materials - the roots and bark of plants of various types. These dyes were the most affordable, and therefore brown brown and dull yellow tones were considered the colors of the poor.

Natural dyes were used on an industrial scale until the 60s and 70s of the 19th century. Only the invention of aniline dyes finally replaced the old dyeing methods. It is interesting that at this time artificial dyes were spreading throughout the East. Neither the law of the Persian government, which prohibited their import, nor the orders to stop work in those factories where they were used, could prevent this. Cruel punishment - cutting off right hand every dyer who resorted to chemistry was soon consigned to oblivion, and after the First World War, chemical dyes came into general use. However, ancient methods are still preserved in carpet weaving and in the production of other artistic products by hand.

Natural dyes for textile fibers are extracted from dried natural raw materials: bark, roots, wood, leaves, fruits, insects - by boiling them in water. The only exception is indigo blue dye, which does not dissolve in water.

Most dyes contained in natural raw materials require treatment of fabric or yarn with salts of various metals, mainly aluminum, copper, chromium, iron and tin, for a strong connection with the fiber. Salts of these metals are well absorbed by textile materials from aqueous solutions and, when dyed, combining with dyes, they form strong colored compounds of different shades on the fibers, called varnishes.

In dyeing technology, the application of metal salts to textile fibers is called etching, and metal salts are called mordants.

Dyeing with water-insoluble indigo has a special technology and is called vat dyeing. The essence of vat dyeing is that indigo in an alkaline bath in the presence of reducing agents transforms into a soluble form called a leuco compound. Fabric or yarn is immersed in a light yellow alkaline solution of a leuco compound - a cube, which is then hung in the air, where it turns from yellow-greenish to blue due to the oxidation of the leuco compound with atmospheric oxygen. During oxidation, the leuco compound is converted on the fiber into the original insoluble blue dye - indigo.

Green tones were produced in ancient times by dyeing fabric or yarn with indigo blue or blue and then using yellow dye extracted from plants. In the same way, lilac and purple tones, dyeing blue fabrics red.

BASIC CONDITIONS AND RULES OF DYING

1. Dyeing is carried out in a well-ventilated area.

2. You cannot use dishes in which food is prepared for dyeing. Copper, aluminum, and iron utensils change the shade of the fiber dyed with vegetable dyes, so etching and dyeing must be carried out in enameled or glass dishes Further, we will repeatedly refer to the concept - bath module - M. The bath module is the ratio of the volume of the dye solution to the weight of the fabric being dyed. The most optimal module for dyeing is 30 or 40. This means that when dyeing or pickling 100 g of yarn, you need to prepare 3 or 4 liters of solution. The container should be large enough so that the solution completely covers the yarn lying loosely in it.

3. It is advisable to use rainwater or water softened with soda ash.

4. The wooden (plastic, glass) stick used for stirring the material to be painted must be clean and smooth.

5. Fabric or yarn must be well moistened with water before dyeing.

PREPARATION OF TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR DYING

The material intended for dyeing must have good wettability. Fabric dyed without pre-dying careful preparation, gives, as experts say, “unpainted”.

Fabrics made from natural raw silk Before dyeing, it is necessary to boil for half an hour in a solution of baby soap with the addition of soda ash (Na₂CO₃). For one liter of water - 3 g of soap, 0.25 g of soda, M = 30. After this, the silk is thoroughly washed in a hot (70°C) solution of the following composition: 0.5 g of calgon (sodium hexamethophosphate), 0.5 ml of ammonia alcohol (30 percent), 1 liter of water.Then the silk is rinsed in warm water.

Cotton and linen fabrics and threads also boiled before dyeing to improve wettability. To dye in light colors, harsh cellulose fabrics are bleached. Before dyeing, unbleached cotton or linen material is boiled for 1 hour in the following solution: for 1 liter of water, 2 - 3 g of washing soda and several pieces (≈ 5 g) laundry soap. In this case, the water should completely cover the yarn or fabric (per 100 g of material - 3 liters of water). After washing, the material is rinsed 2-3 times in warm water until the soap completely disappears, which interferes with uniform coloring.

Wool yarn they are wound into skeins of about 100 g each and loosely tied in three or four places with cotton or linen thread. For washing, use baby soap, grate it or finely grind it into shavings, then dissolve it in a small amount of hot (60 "C) water. The soap solution is poured into warm water and the foam is whipped up. The yarn is washed in this water, lightly squeezing and turning the skeins over. To prevent the wool from matting, you do not need to rub it and twist it. The soap solution is usually changed several times until the water is clean. No need to do this cleaning solution too hot, this causes the wool to darken and break down. Experience shows that synthetic detergents change the color shade, so it is better not to use them. The washed wool is thoroughly rinsed in running water, then a little table (9 percent) vinegar is added to remove soap and then rinsed again.

PREPARATION OF DYING BOTCHES

Dyes can be obtained from branches, leaves, fruits, peel, bark, and roots of plants. Both fresh and dried plants are used. When dyeing fresh plants, brighter and more intense tones are obtained, but are usually less lightfast.

The chemical composition of a plant and its parts largely depends on its age, growth, place of growth, soil composition and weather conditions during the growing season.

The shade of the dye also depends on the time the plants were collected. Leaves are collected on June 7 - 10 (young leaves give more intense shades than mature leaves), flowers - just opened, bark - in the spring, when it is easily separated, roots and roots - either before the plant blooms, or in the fall.

Leaves, stems, roots, flowers, fruits. cones and bark are pre-soaked in soft cold water for 12 hours (from evening to morning, for example). For every 100 g of herb take approximately 1 liter of water. After this, the plants are brought to a boil in the same water and kept over very low heat, “simmered”, but not boiled. Flowers and herbs are “simmered” for 30 minutes, bark, stems, nut shells, roots - 2 - 4 hours.

It is not recommended to extract dyes from plants for longer, as the color of the infusion becomes browner. After extracting the dye, the decoction is poured into another container, filtered, and the plants are again filled with water to obtain a second decoction. “Simmer” the herbs and bark for about 30 minutes. Strain the second decoction into the same container as the first.

Then a so-called dye bath is prepared, that is, the required amount of softened water is added to the resulting broth according to the calculation. per 100 g of fabric (yarn) about 4 liters of dye solution (bath module 40).

PREPARATION OF mordant solutions

As already noted, dyeing fabrics with vegetable dyes is inconceivable without treating the fiber with metal salts, which is called etching.

Metal salts traditionally used in dyeing are used as mordants: potassium alum, iron sulfate (oxide and ferrous), copper sulfate, zinc sulfate, potassium chromium alum, chromium (sodium or potassium), tin dichloride.

The mordant solution is made at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of water (one percent). Iron salts are always taken less - 1 g per 1 liter. Pickling is carried out in the same way as dyeing, with modulus M = 30. For 100 g of yarn, 3 liters of mordant solution are needed, 30 g of metal salt is dissolved in a small amount of hot water (60°C), filtered, poured into a container for dyeing and adjusted solution volume up to 3 liters.

It is not recommended to wring the yarn during or after mordling, otherwise the coloring will be uneven.

There are also natural mordants, for example, natural formic acid, sauerkraut brine, salt, vinegar, birch ash.

1. Pre-etching

A one percent mordant solution is prepared, clean wet yarn is dipped into it and kept at t = 60 C for 25 minutes. Then the yarn is taken out of the solution, allowed to drain, transferred to a dye decoction and “simmered” for 30 minutes at 90°C.

2. Simultaneous etching

The prepared mordant solution is poured into the dye broth, and clean, wet yarn is dipped into it. “Simmer” for 30 - 40 minutes at 60°C.

3. Post-etching

First, the yarn is “simmered” in a dye decoction for 30 minutes, then transferred to the prepared mordant solution and kept for 25 minutes at 60°C.

Different etching methods affect the color shade. When pre-etched, the shade of the yarn turns out to be darker and more intense.

Dyed yarn can be rinsed immediately after dyeing, or you can leave the yarn in the solution until completely cooled and then rinse in warm water with the addition of a small amount of table vinegar (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

The yarn is then lightly wrung out and hung on a stick. It is advisable to thread a second stick into the skeins, which with its weight pulls the yarn when drying.

When dyeing with plants, the protein fibers of silk and wool are dyed better and more intensely, while those of cotton and linen are dyed weaker. To dye cotton and linen in intense colors, you need to make more concentrated dye solutions or repeat the dyeing several times.

It is advisable to do the entire dyeing procedure for a small test skein. If the resulting color does not suit you, you need to change the concentration of the decoction or mordant, take a different mordant or try a different mordant method, or change the dyeing temperature.

By experimenting with solutions of different saturations and different mordants, you can get a variety of shades of color.

A REDUCED LIST OF PLANTS THAT CAN BE USED AS DYES

Coloring matter yellow color contain:

Barberry (bark, roots, wood), birch (leaves and young bark), cornflower (stems and leaves), heather, wolfberry (bark), pomegranate (crusts), oak (bark, acorns), spruce (cones), stinging nettle , buckthorn (fresh bark and branches), linden (fallen leaves), onion (husk), walnut (shell), tansy, wormwood, rhubarb (roots), chamomile (flowers), bearberry (whole plant), yarrow , tea, series.

Coloring matter Green colour contain:

Ledum, elderberry (shrub), heather (leaves and berries), St. John's wort, stinging nettle, juniper (berries), horsetail (stems), poplar (bark, branches, leaves), bird cherry (bark, branches), sorrel (leaves) .

Coloring matter of blue color contain:

Basma, woad (leaves), cornflower (flower petals), buckwheat (leaves), blackberries (berries), litmus grass, moss (stems), blueberries (berries), sage (stems and leaves).

Coloring matter Brown contain:

Cherry (branches, leaves), oak (bark, acorns), horse sorrel (root dug up in autumn), buckthorn (dry bark), lichen, alder (leaves, bark), onion (husk), plum (branches, leaves) .

Coloring matter Red contain:

Elderberry (ripe berries), wolfberry (ripe berries), oregano (extracts), St. John's wort (flowers), galangal, chestnut tree (extract from the bark of branches), maple, buckthorn (young, branches and leaves, ripe berries), poppy (flowers), madder, aspen (fallen leaves), bedstraw.

Coloring matter gray contain:

Ledum, oak (bark), spruce (cones), walnut (shell), burdock (roots).

DYING YARN IN SEVERAL COLORS

Lightly wind the yarn into balls weighing less than 50 g and dry the balls into the dye solution. In this case, the dye should completely cover the balls. With this dyeing, the thread in the ball is obtained with a gradual transition of tone from dark to lighter. Until the yarn gets wet, it floats, so it should be pressed down with a lid from a saucepan of a smaller diameter.

If the yarn is dark and you want to get a lighter color - bleach with a gradual transition of tone, then rewind the yarn in a skein. Prepare soapy water. After hanging the skein over a stick, dip part of the skein into the soapy solution and “simmer” for 15 - 20 minutes. Then change the soapy water and, raising the end of the yarn in the water 5 - 10 cm higher, again soak the yarn for 15 - 20 minutes. Bleach until the thread is the shade you want.

A knitted item made from multi-colored yarn looks beautiful. Wind the yarn into skeins of 100 g each and easily tie with cotton thread. Prepare a dye solution. Wet 1/3 of the skein and dip it in the dye. Throw the skein over the stick so that the dry end does not get into the dye. Having dyed one part, rinse the yarn and dry it. Then prepare a dye solution of a different color. Wet 1/3 of the skein on the opposite side and repeat the dyeing process. Thus, the yarn will have three colors, counting the original.

You can dye the yarn in any number of colors, decreasing the dye area as the number of colors increases. Dyeing solutions are prepared based on the weight of the part of the yarn being dyed (2-3 liters of solution per 100 g of yarn).

Start your experiments, for example, with tansy. The coloring recipe is given for 100 g of yarn. Tansy (eight shades from one decoction!)

Soak 150 g tansy in 2 liters cold water for 12 o'clock. Bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for 30 - 40 minutes. Strain. Pour the cakes with a small amount of water. “Simmer” for 15 minutes. Strain. Combine both decoctions. Bring the amount of water to 3 liters (M = 30).

Divide 100 g of wool yarn into 8 small skeins. Each one can be easily tied in 2 - 3 places with cotton thread. Dip clean soaked yarn (all 8 skeins) into tansy broth. “Simmer” for 30 minutes.

Then prepare one percent solutions of the following mordants:

1. Potassium alum,

2. Copper sulfate,

3. Zinc sulfate,

4. Stannous chloride,

5. Chromium-potassium alum,

6. Potassium bichromate,

7. Ferric sulfate (0.1 percent solution),

8. Ferrous ammonium alum (0.1 percent solution).

Etch one of the skeins in the first of the prepared solutions, that is, soak for 25 minutes at a temperature of 60°C. Etch the next skein in the second solution, etc. Then rinse (you can add vinegar to revitalize the color).

Any silk, wool or cellulose fabric or yarn can be dyed this way.

The color illustrations show samples obtained using this dyeing method.

Let's say your the fur coat has faded or you're just tired of it. Or perhaps you just want to give your fur clothing a whimsical, unusual look? Or did they make it fur? Don’t you want to go to the dry cleaner to dye your fur? Try this at home by reading our tips.

DIY fur dyeing

Typically, fur is dyed in dark colors - black, brown or dark brown. Because then fur defects will be less visible. In addition, this is the basic rule for coloring fur - you can only dye it in a darker color.

Don't worry - this procedure is no more complicated than

All fur dyeing operations are carried out only in special longboats made of stainless steel or plastic barrels. There are two main methods for dyeing fur:

  1. Dyeing with oxidative and dyeing with acid dyes.
  2. Toning.

The first method is the most common. Firstly, it is cheaper, and secondly, fur is dyed using this method at a lower cost. low temperatures. Fur dyed with oxidative dyes has a greater shine when compared to fur after acid dyeing.

There are now special ones in stores sprays for coloring fur products. But you should be aware that this method will inevitably stain everything the fur touches. Below you will see a video where the craftswoman did a great job with hair dye.

Important:

Before you dye your fur with your own hands, you need to check tanning capacity of hides on the welding temperature. Old skin may simply not withstand painting and fall apart during painting. The quality of fur dyeing largely depends on the ability of dyes to penetrate deep into the hair. The dye solution does not penetrate well into the structure of oily and dirty hair. To do this, you need to kill the skin.

It is known that fur They look beautiful and luxurious, and keep you warm in the winter cold. Like any clothing, they lose their great appearance over time. If your favorite thing has faded or is simply boring, you can paint it at home without turning to specialists, thereby turning it into something new and unique.

How to dye arctic fox fur at home

Arctic fox fur lends itself well to dyeing. If you want to upgrade your Arctic fox item, you will need:

  • hair dye;
  • fatty cream (can be replaced with glycerin);
  • hair balm;
  • rubber medical gloves;
  • a brush or an old toothbrush for applying the coloring composition;
  • vinegar.

Your actions:

  1. Lubricate the inside with cream.
  2. Stretch the material on a flat surface and secure it.
  3. Thoroughly moisten the previously cleaned surface with water.
  4. Wear gloves and quickly apply the coloring compound, smoothing the pile with your hand.
  5. Wait for the period of time specified in the dye instructions.
  6. Rinse the lint under running warm water and rinse in a vinegar solution.
  7. Treat the item with balm diluted in water and rinse.
  8. Lubricate the inside again with cream, gently stretch it, pin it with pins, and let it dry.

Dyeing a mink coat

The mink coat looks great and is durable. If the color of the product has faded, you can dye the mink fur. Before you dye mink fur at home, prepare:

  • hair dye;
  • spray;
  • a comb with fine teeth;
  • shampoo;
  • hair balm;
  • fatty cream (glycerin is possible).

Your actions:

  1. Clean the item from grease and dirt.
  2. Treat the flesh with cream.
  3. Prepare the coloring composition according to the instructions.
  4. Lightly moisten the surface with water using a spray bottle.
  5. Apply the dye to the pile with a spray bottle from a distance of 50 cm.
  6. Even out the tone by combing the surface with a comb.
  7. Wait half an hour.
  8. Wash off the coloring composition warm water with shampoo.
  9. Rinse with balm diluted in water.
  10. Apply the cream to the flesh.
  11. Lay out the product and leave it to dry.
  12. Comb the fibers in the desired direction.

Fur cleaning

Before you dye your fur at home, you need to clean it. Paint particles have difficulty penetrating greasy, contaminated pile. Before dyeing a fur coat or other fur item, you should clean the product with an alkaline solution. To do this you will need:

  • water – 1 l;
  • salt – 2 tsp;
  • ammonia – 1 tsp;
  • detergent (dishwashing gel, washing powder) – 1 tsp;
  • baking soda – 2 tsp.

Your actions:

  1. Dissolve the ingredients in water, stir well until smooth.
  2. Treat the flesh with a rich cream (possibly glycerin) to prevent drying out.
  3. Apply the resulting solution evenly to the pile using a brush.
  4. Rinse thoroughly under running water.
  5. Lay the item out and let it dry at room temperature.

Coloring fur with hair dye

The structure of natural fur pile resembles human hair. Therefore, hair dye is suitable for home dyeing. This drug can be purchased at any supermarket or household chemical store. The choice of colors and shades is varied, and it will not be difficult for you to find the right tone. It is better to choose shades darker than the original color, for example, black. To give something a light shade, you need to bleach it by treating it with a solution of hydrogen peroxide. Dyeing fur with this product is simple and reminiscent of the procedure for coloring your own curls.

Spray for coloring fur

Another product intended for dyeing at home is a special spray. This product is used to add tint to long ends. The undercoat and undercoat are not affected. The dye dissipates at a distance of 60-70 cm. The can should be moved slowly and measuredly to distribute the substance evenly. The painted area should be combed immediately to remove excess product and prevent the fibers from sticking together.

Video: is it possible to dye a mink coat?

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